Sunburn and Knee Problems

Day 13

After eating more pancakes and bacon at church we left the little town of Franklin on the 9 o'clock shuttle. We hit the Trail running, but within minutes almost everyone else on the shuttle passed us. My belly felt too full from breakfast and every step was a chore. As the day warmed, we shed layers until I was down to my shorts and T-shirt. I didn't get much sleep the night before and walked like a zombie all day. For the first time I thought about how I'd rather be in a city sitting on a couch than walking through the mountains all day. I felt heavy with every step and I stumbled over even the tiniest of roots. At one point I tripped into mud, dirtying my shorts and hands not even a day out of town. We hiked up and down Siler Bald and up Wayah Bald. At the top, a trail angel had set up a few snacks and cold drinks for hikers to enjoy. It definitely wasn't extravagant, but it is cool to see someone like him give. It seems as if most acts of kindness are done out of excess, but even when we have little, we could and should give. A few hundred feet away was an old stone tower they used to use as a lookout for forest fires. Atop the tower we could see mountains all around us, including the Smokies which we were fast approaching. Just a little bit further down the path we spent the night at Wayah Bald Shelter.

Miles hiked today: 11 mi. Total AT miles: 120.8 Total AT miles left to hike: 2064.5

Day 14

I had a better frame of mind today and noticed the signs of the beginning of spring. Birds chirped in the background, buds were forming on the plants and trees, and insects wete making an appearance. The sun shone bright as we walked today and before we knew it our skin began to turn red. We had heard in Franklin that it was going to be hot, but didn't think to get any sunscreen. We even saw our first snake warming itself by the side of the Trail. We sang, "Here comes the sun! Uh oh uh oh!" From our shelter we walked across Copper Ridge Bald and Wesser Bald before beginning a long descent. We dropped almost 2000 feet in elevation in just over three miles. A lot of hikers have a more difficult time goung downhill than up because it puts a lot of pressure on their knees. We haven't had any problem with this before, but with such steep terrain for so long, Nepsis' knees really hurt. We took it slow and decided to buy a knee brace and some hiking poles for her since they help take a lot of pressure off the knees. Thankfully there was an outfitter just a mile beyond A. Rufus Morgan Shelter where we were staying the night. We didn't know if it'd be open so late, but had already decided to walk the extra mile anyway because there was also a restaurant there. We needed a treat after a hard day. So we dropped off our packs and walked that mile. The outfitter was closed, but we enjoyed a meal and would come back for the hiking poles the next morning.

Miles hiked today: 15.1 mi. Total AT miles: 136.3 Total AT miles left to hike: 2049

Day 15

We woke up and walked that mile again to get to the restaurant when it opened at 8 o'clock. After breakfast we went to the Natahala Outdoor Center across the street when it opened at 9. They had a small selection of trekking poles and Nepsis began looking for a knee brace, but couldn't find one. An employee informed us that knee braces were sold out weeks ago. I guess a lot of hikers have knee problems coming off the mountain. The employee told us to wait though because they got a shipment in that hadn't been opened yet. After we waited for quite a while he told us they didn't have any, but that knee braces did not really help the problem, they just helped relieve pain. He recommended taking ibuprofen and sucking it up. Once we paid for the poles and some sunscreen we overheard another thruhiker say he got his Great Smoky Mountain Park permit at the outfitter because for some reason they were not giving out permits at the beginning of the Smokies this year. I'm glad we heard this because it was true. The outfitter had a computer and printer set up for thruhikers to get their permits. They cost $20 each and the process took a long time. We didn't start hiking until noon in the heat of the day. The hike was mostly up as we climbed Swim Bald and Cheoah Bald. We wanted to make it to the edge of the Smokies in two days so we decided to hike past a shelter and camp at Locust Cove Gap. We didn't think many hikers would be there, but there was a lot. We went to sleep early so we could make it to Fontana Dam the next day.

Miles hiked today: 11.3 mi. Total AT miles: 136.3 Total AT miles left to hike: 2049

Day 16

We woke up early for our longest hiking day yet. We just hiked and hiked and hiked. The last several miles were quite difficult for me and I began to understand that this journey is hard and I could understand why so many people quit before finishing. We won't quit though. A mile before the shelter we crossed a road where thruhikers were piling into a small shuttle. We squeezed in and were whisked away down a curvy road to the Fontana Village General Store where thruhikers resupply on food. Our guide book said the shuttle closed at 6 o'clock which was in 15 minutes, but I asked the driver and she said to have the cashier call her when we were done shopping. Unfortunately, I failed to communicate this to Nepsis and she was worried we would miss the shuttle. So we rushed through our shopping without really planning out what exactly we would need. When our shuttle pulled back up our friend, North Star, who we hadn't seen in days, jumped out. He was missing his wallet and I helped him look through the garbage can for it. When he found it he was overjoyed and paid for everyone's shuttle fare back. He also offered to take our packs to the shelter where he had come from so we could hike the last mile without them. That was our easiest mile yet as we walked along the edge of Fontana Lake. The shelter was nicknamed the "Fontana Hilton" because it was large with bunks that could hold 20 hikers and actual restrooms with showers. The shelter was completely full and in front of it was a little area built from stone with picnic tables that looked out onto the lake. Thruhikers were strewn about lounging and drinking beer. Behind the shelter was the bathroom, then a grassy hill, and another larger hill. Tents were set up all over the hills and we found the spot where North Star had reserved a place for us to set up our tent. We got everything ready for the night and enjoyed a hot shower. Thruhikers were everywhere, being loud, and it seemed like everyone we had ever met on the Trail were there. We sat at a picnic table and enjoyed the rest of the evening with North Star and a few of our other friends.

Miles hiked today: 18.2 mi. Total AT miles: 165.8 Total AT miles left to hike: 2019.5