Day 8
The breakfast at the Blueberry Patch Hostel was phenomenal. There was scrambled eggs, sausage patties, hash browns, cheese biscuits, pancakes with the most wonderful homemade blueberry syrup, and coffee. Gary said a prayer asking God to help us see the beauty of Him and the beauty of His will for our lives. After that he drove us back to the Trail and hugged us goodbye. Feeling rejuvenated, we hiked the first several miles quickly. After winding around a mountain a few times a small wooden sign on a tree let us know we had crossed into North Carolina. Soon after we had to climb the steepest ascent we've encountered yet which was tough. Right after we had another steep ascent to make it up Couthouse Bald. At long last we made it to Muskrat Creek Shelter where we had decided to stay the night. We had walked twelve miles to get there. As we sat resting we noticed the shelter was pretty trashed. Bits of garbage were strewn all over and someone had left some dirty socks at the back of the shelter. The shelter itself wad covered with much more graffiti than any other. We cooked dinner, ate, and picked out a place to pitch our tent. Christine went to use the privy and came back horrified. Apparently it was horrible. So we decided to move on to the next shelter even though it was already late in the day. It was slow moving, but we pushed ourselves to Standing Indian Shelter. We arrived just before dark where hikers huddled around a fire shouted my name. It was a bunch of the young hikers who had been at the first and second shelter with us. We sat with them for a bit, but since we were exhausted from so much hiking and it was already late we went to sleep soon after. When we told them we didn't have trail names yet the husband remarked that it can be very empowering to name yourself. I had been really thinking about doing that, creating a name that would help me
Miles hiked today : 16.7 Total AT miles: 86.3 Total AT miles left to hike: 2099
Day 9
Since our legs were still sore from yesterday we started out later than usual. We hiked the gradual ascent to Standing Indian Mountain at 5498 ft. elevation, our highest yet. Then we made the gradual descent to Carter Gap Shelter, making for a nice short day after a long one. When we set up our tent in the woods nearby the shelter, we found a plastic bag with a can on generic Dr. Pepper and a can of Georgian beer. We dont know how they got there, but we thoroughly enjoyed them with dinner.
Miles hiked today: 7.6 Total AT miles: 93.9 Total AT miles left to hike: 2091.4
Day 10
We started to hear the patter of rain on our tent in the early morning. When we normally would be packing up, we stayed under our quilt. When the rain didn't go away we got everything ready in our tent and in a lull of rain emerged to pack away our wet tent. Armed with ponchos we began hiking and soon it began to rain again. It was extremely foggy so we didn't see any good views. It rained off and on all day, but that didn't matter because even when it wasn't actually raining the tree canopy leaked drops of water on us. So it was as if it was raining all day long. Hiking in the rain is a completely different experience from hiking in the sun. Everything is damp and chilled so my body stiffens and my movements become more machine-like. Covered by a poncho I feel more disconnected from the different parts of my body and it feels as if my body is propelling itself forward of its own volition. With the hood up my vision is limited to a small space in front of me as I peer out of the plastic tunnel. I do not look around me, but mostly fix my eyes on the ground to avoid slippery roots or rocks. Since I am a thinking introvert I live inside my own head a lot. Hiking in the rain amplifies this and even as my feet take me down a very specific path marked with white blazes, my mind takes me to far off and unfriendly places. As my mind sometimes does, it took me this day to a place filled with all kinds of off-hand comments and unexplained actions by my friends and family. These are probably the things they forgot instantly and I have held on to. I regret to inform you that most are silly and most are years now in the past. Some are about people I barely even know anymore. But each hurtful memory ran into the next, gaining momentum as they gathered together into a large ball of anger and sadness. Thankfully a steep climb up the slippery rocks of Mount Albert took my mind away from these things. It is there we passed our first one hundred miles on the Appalachian Trail. There was a tower on top of the mountain that was supposed to provide great views, but we literally could only see a few feet in front of us until the scenery disappeared into a sheet of white. We continued on through the wetness. At times it looked like we were in a rain forrest and I kept thinking I was in Jurassic Park. We arrived at the Rock Gap Shelter and decided to sleep inside rather than put up a wet tent. A lot more thruhikers arrived and filled it up, hanging wet clothing all over. A couple that had married only three days before starting the Trail was there. When we told them we didn't have trail names yet the husband remarked that it can be very empowering to give yourself your own name. That started me thinking that I could give myself a name that would help me make this journey what I want it to be. The husband's name was Stick in the Mud.
Miles hiked today: 12.1 Total AT miles: 106 Total AT miles left to hike: 2079.3
Day 11
We woke up at 6 am in total darkness. We packed up our stuff as quietly as possible and must have done a good job since the others in the shelter jokingly expressed fear that we had been eaten by a bear. We walked up a small mountain and back down to a parking lot where a shuttle picked us up to go to the small town of Franklin. The shuttle took us to a motel where we booked two nights. We decided to take our first 'zero day' here, a day of absolutely no hiking on the Trail. It felt nice to walk around the town without packs, enjoying real food at local restaurants. We enjoyed going to the Gem and Mineral Museum and an outfitter for some more food in their hiker box. When we saw there was a donut shop nearby we walked over there and ate the most fantastic donuts I've ever had. It was a pretty restful day and we went to bed fairly early.
Miles hiked today: 3.8 Total AT miles: 109.8 Total AT miles left to hike: 2075.5
Day 12
Our first official zero day began with two large vans from First Baptist Church pulling up to the motel to whisk all thruhikers away to their church for a free pancake and bacon breakfast. They also took our photo and printed it out there and provided paper and envelopes for us to send a letter to someone. They stamped and mailed it for us. They make free breakfast every morning during thruhiking season. After we had our fill, we went to the local supermarket to resupply on food. After that we walked to another outfitter/coffee shop where we got more free food from the hiker box, free coffee and bagels for being thruhikers and a chance to use an actual computer. It is there that I settled on the trail name of Hesychast. One of the definitions of this word is one who practices "inner prayer, aiming at union with God on a level beyond images, concepts and language." Repetition of the Jesus Prayer is a recognized approach to seeking this union. During this hike I hope to draw closer to God which I can only do if I give up on my unceasing mental wanderings. From the outfitter/coffee shop, we walked over another mile to the local movie theater to watch Muppets Most Wanted which was fun. After the movie we had a more than three mile walk back to the motel, but thankfully a local man recognized us as thruhikers and gave us a ride back. When we got back we packed to hit the trails again tomorrow!
The official blog of Hesychast and his wife, Nepsis, who thruhiked the Appalachian Trail during the 2014 season.
Monday, March 31, 2014
Rain, Zero, and My Trail Name
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
Wonder
Day 5
We woke up at 7:30 and left the comfort of the hostel to eat our breakfast outside and threw away the trash in the garbage can. As soon as we started hiking it began to sprinkle. We donned our ponchos and ventured forth. It rained softly throughout our hike and was really foggy which made for some beautiful scenes. Looking to the left or right we could see different shades of trees as they disappeared into the fog. It was also windy so we didn't stop for lunch until we reached Low Gap Shelter where we stayed for the night. There were a lot of hikers at the shelter including a group of humorous young people we hung out with.
Miles hiked today: 11.5 Total AT miles: 43.2 AT miles left to hike: 2142.1
Day 6
The first long stretch of our hike was very easy walking across the side of a long mountain. I threw on the Avett Brother's album I and Love and You. Before too long my eyes filled with tears at the beauty of the music and the lyrics. I can't remember the last time I cried. As I listened I realized that I have not been overwhelmed by the beauty of the mountains here. In fact, I haven't really been in awe of anything in a long while. My sense of wonder is gone. I have understood this in regards to my senses. It is difficult to be wowed by food, art, movies, even the beauty of another person. We are overexposed to the bodies of celebrities, we are given too much access to a variety of cheap food, we have too many TV shows and movies that contain too much excitement and plot twists in order to hold our attention away from the others. It is difficult for us to truly appreciate anything when we have so much of it. But I think I have lost something deeper than a loss of sensuous wonder. It is some natural part of the spirit or the soul that is out of whack. So what can I do to regain a sense of wonder? Deprive myself of comforts and pleasures? Truly enjoying a frozen pizza after three days of hiking is one thing, but truly appreciating the simple love of my wife is something different. How can I actually feel the presence of God? How can I be overwhelmed by beauty or love or grace? Perhaps I can discover some answers on this journey. We had planned to hike twelve miles this day and set up camp on tpp of Rocky Mountain, but someone told us it was supposed to be very cold so we decided to hike more to the next shelter. We're sure glad we did because right after the mountain an older Georgian couple had set up trail magic at Indian Grave Gap. We had chicken burgers, hamburgers, bottled root beer, gatorade, spinach salad, strawberries, and bananas. Afyer we had our fill and thanked them we continued on up Tray Mountain which was extremely difficult, feeling sick from all the food. Once at the Tray Mountain Shelter we set up our tent and found our bottle of denatured alcohol had cracked and started leaking. Not too much got wet from it, but I should have known better than to store it in a cheap Walmart water bottle with thin plastic. Luckily, Christine grabbed a small bottle of Gatorade from the trail magic so we transferred it over. I will also keep it in a side pocket from now on. We went to sleep soon after dealing with the mess, fully bundled in all of our baselayers and jackets and sleeping quilt.
Miles hiked today: 15.4 Total AT miles: 58.6 AT miles left to hike: 2126.7
Day 7
We woke up to snow covering the entire mountainside. We were slower in leaving our warm tent than normal, but still managed to leave before anyone else. The trail kept maneuvering from the cold, snow-covered side of the mountain to the warm spring-looking side. But soon clouds blocked the sun and a strong wind prevailed so it was just cold all over. We planned to stay at Deep Gap Shelter, but decided to push a couple more miles to the Blueberry Patch Hostel instead of braving what was supposed to be a very cold night. So we walked to Dick's Creek Gap and headed west down US 76 toward Hiawassee. We walked about a mile before a real estate agent pulled over to drive us the couple more miles to the hostel. This hostel is really just a two-room building in an older couple's backyard. One room is full of wooden bunks hand-crafted by the hostel owner himself. The mattresses are comfortable and they provide pillows with clean pillowcases. One bunk is big enough for couples to sleep together. The other room is a little kitchen with a picnic table and a large wood stove. The owners do your laundry for you and provide clean clothes to wear in the meantime, provide snacks and cookwear, let you refill your Coleman fuel or denatured alcohol, and have another small building for the toilet and shower fully decked out with all the amenities you could need. To top it all off they make you a big breakfast in the morning and drive you back to the Trail. And they do all of this for you for free. They are Christians and really very truly kind and thougful. Gary comes in about once an hour to throw more logs in the stove and ask us if we need anything. We were going to go to town to buy some groceries, but we managed to find enough food to last us in the hiker box. We felt very blessed to be here and since there were only three other thruhikers here, we got to talk more with them, feeling more comfortable in small groups. We had a good night rest and are now waiting for breakfast.
Miles hiked today: 11 Total AT miles: 69.6 AT miles left to hike: 2115.7
Saturday, March 22, 2014
The Beginning of Things
Day 1
Christine's parents drove us up to Amicalola Falls State Park where we were a bit too early to register for our thruhike. Outside the visitor center there was a scale and our packs weighed in fully loaded with food, fuel and water at twenty-three and twenty-seven pounds. I was very happy with that and so far everyone else's packs have been heavier. After two goodbyes we were off climbing the 604 steps up alongside the highest waterfalls east of the Mississippi. At the top we easily hiked the rest of the approach trail and passed our first white blaze. We were very surprised to make it there as quickly as we did. We thought it would take all day, but it was still early. We decided to move on to the next shelter. Throughout our hike it was misty so we couldn't see any far views and it was a bit cold, but it was nice to be out in the fresh air. We got to the Stover Creek Shelter earlier than most other thruhikers and nabbed a spot in the shelter. Plenty of other thruhikers came in throughout the day and we talked some, but there were many big talkers there so we mostly listened. It felt like the first day of school. We were the first to settle into our sleeping quilt just before dark, but soon everyone was trying to sleep.
Miles hiked today: 1.6 Total AT miles: 2.8 AT miles left to hike: 2182.5
Day 2
We weren't very tired when we went to sleep and we didnt sleep very well. So we got up at first light and were the first ones to leave. The weather was a lot nicer so we could check out some views. It was windy though so we couldn't stop to break too long without getting cold. We had to climb Sassafras Mountain and Justus Mountain which were small, but steep and a good way to break in our trail legs a bit. We got to Gooch Mountain Shelter early again and got a spot in the shelter. Most of the older thruhikers camped out in tents and the younger ones took over the shelter. Most of the young hikers from our first shelter made it here as well. We went to sleep when dark fell again.
Miles hiked today : 13 Total AT miles: 15.8 AT miles left to hike: 2161
Day 3
We slept a little better during the night and left earlier than most. We decided to only hike eight and a half miles because after that the Trail passed six miles through a zone where a bear canister is required of all overnighters. We hiked slowly and stopped at all the great viewing points. All of the young hikers from the last two shelters we stayed at decided to push through the bear canister zone. We got to the last campsite set up our tent and ate dinner. Then we looked at our watch for the first time since we started and discovered it was only 2:30 pm. Since we were exhausted we hatched the plan to go to sleep real early and wake up real early to ensure a spot at Mountain Crossings Hostel the next day.
Miles hiked today: 8.5 Total AT miles: 24.3 AT miles left to hike: 2161
Day 4
We woke with our watch alarm at 4:00 am and packed up our tent as quietly as possible. The moonlight lighted the path pretty well as we hiked up Blood Mountain, our highest peak yet at 4461 ft. It got fully light right before we reached the summit. The climb up wasn't as difficult as other hikers made it seem like it would be. The top wad very rocky and we really enjoyed some tremendous views. Christine kept pointing out spots she wants to build a house someday. On our way off the mountain we somehow missed our well marked path and walked down a very steep rock slab. Once we discovered our mistake we had to crawl back up and I slipped on a wet section of the rock. I wanted to see how far I could get without falling. Not even four days! Once on the correct path we walked down to Neel Gap and across US 19 road to Mountain Crossings which is quite the magical place. The first thing you see is a great big tree with branches spread out. Dangling from these branches are the shoes and boots from hikers past who have cast them off in favor of lighter and better foitwear. The tree is covered. This place is not just a stop for thruhikers, but is a popular spot for motorcyclists and tourists. Weekend hikers and boy scout troops start here for a few days of adventure. The outfitter itself is an old building from the 20s made from stone. We waved goodbye to several of the young hikers from the previous two shelters who had stayed here the night before and were moving on. Inside, the outfitter was filled with anything and everything a long distance hiker could ever need. It is here that they help thruhikers lighten their load of any unnecessary gear. The top portion of the walls are covered with more forsaken shoes and an array of thruhikers packs from the decades past fully decked out with gear. We bought two bunks in the hostel two staircases down the side of the hill. We bought a frozen pizza which they cooked for us and we devoured it in minutes, still hungry. We bought a few food items for the next section of our hike, but got most of our food from the hiker's box. A hiker's box is a place for thruhikers to leave anything they don't want to carry anymore that other hikers could find useful. In this one there was a lot of food, books, clothes, and other small trinkets. There was even a pack and a sleeping pad. Thankfully, a father and boy hiking team had a large maildrop sent to them and had a lot of good food left over for us to scavenge. We bought a box of mac & cheese and a sandwhich and shared those for supper. I spent the day writing this and resting. Christine sewed up a shoulder strap on her Walmart pack that was tearing loose. We think it will hold even if she has to repair it in spots every now and again. After supper I was stil hungry. Luckily for me, we were about to experience our first trail magic! A large van pulled up and several adults and children poured out carrying boxes and pans. They brought us hot Mexican lasagna and soup, cookies, lemonade, and tea. They also brought good socks the kids had funraised to give to hikers. We each took a pair to use as a backup when another pair bites the dust. It was a good.day to rest and we are going to ramp up the miles a little.
Miles hiked today: 7.4 Total AT miles: 31.7 AT miles left to hike: 2153.6
Monday, March 17, 2014
What I Am Nervous About
I'm not nervous about bears because they are afraid of us. I'm not nervous about psychos because I never have been afraid of them and there are no more psychos on the Trail than anywhere else. I'm not nervous about ticks because we've sprayed down all our clothes with permethrin, will conduct daily body checks, and know the signs and symptoms of lyme disease. I'm not nervous about getting sick or injured because we both have insurance. I'm not nervous about quitting because we are prepared and mentally strong. We have no commitments ahead of us so we can go as slow as we need. We do not need to push ourselves when our bodies are tired. We have the time to rest. I'm not nervous about running out of money because we have saved more than people recommend and we know how to be frugal if we need to be. I'm not nervous about our gear because if anything doesn't work out, there are plenty of outfitters along the way where we can change out gear.
There is nothing for me to be nervous about. I don't think I'm being overly confident. We know it will be hard and that at times we will want to quit. But I think most of the concerns people have with a thru-hike that might make them nervous are created by a hyper-anxious society, fueled by sensationalized media coverage of every murder and every car crash.
Tomorrow we leave bright and early for a twelve hour drive, from Michigan to Georgia. We will spend the night at a hotel an hour south of Amicalola Falls State Park and begin our journey early on Wednesday, March 19th. Our bags are packed. All of our stuff is stored away. We are ready.
Sunday, March 9, 2014
10 Day Countdown
We started packing up all our things more than a month before our departure. And the small 'To Do' list I wrote last month expanded into a million other things. We still have several thing left to do, but nothing we can't handle. We have three going-away dinners to eat this week, we have to pick up some flat-rate boxes at the post office and pack up a few more mail-drops, we have to watch the last film in Godfrey Reggio's '-qatsi' trilogy which explores the relationships between humankind, nature, and technology, and we have to pack up the rest of our stuff.
We've been going to Goodwill a lot, giddy to be free of one more thing. We're been looking up insurance policies and found good travelers' insurance, but still need to sign up. We've filed our taxes, but still need to send in our check. I've got a few more blogposts to write. I've got to load all of our music onto our Smartphone.
I'm trying to reread Walden. There are two other books I wanted to read before we leave. I'm going to compile a prayer list. I'm going to gather addresses to send postcards to. I've got to write-in some information in our guidebook.
I'm using the Avett Brothers to keep my sanity.
I should have hiked more, even though it was cold outside. I should have shaved off a few pounds from my belly.
But the adventure will be here in ten days and we will be ready!
Friday, March 7, 2014
Final Gear List
Toiletries and Medical Aide Kit
Miscellaneous/Luxury Items